Dolores River RV Campground
September 8 - 18, 2026
Dolores, Colorado
We always enjoyed our travels in and through Colorful Colorado during the full-time rollin' years. When we left Santa Fe, Dolores, CO was our next stop. What was to be an eight night stop was extended. Wouldn't you just know, the big slide wasn't budging. It worked perfectly when we pulled it in in Santa Fe just hours earlier...no skips, no unusual noise, and locked in place just like it always has. We found a mobile mechanic from Cortez who arrived on the spot. He manually let the slide out and we were encouraged it would be fixed before we left. We cancelled reservations in Gallup, NM just in case and settled in for a peaceful stay right on the Dolores River. Long story short, the slide is not fixed. It has been a bit on the cozy side the past couple of days with the slide in, but we did this once before in Tucson in 2014 with all four of the Tan Clan...no problem!
We have made the best of our stay here and have enjoyed adventures, being lazy, reading, walking, and the relaxing sound of the river. Our sight backs up to a fishing lake. And just on the other side of the berm is the river with a nice walking path. There is a pair of Great Blue Herons fishing in the pond and the river walk we do several times a day.
Cortez is a 20 minute drive for lunch and a stop at Safeway for groceries. A cold brewsky, salsa, chips and fish tacos hit the spot at Gustavo's Mexican on Main Street. It's a great choice for lunch. The city centers around a walkable, historic downtown with outdoor gear shops, breweries, and locally owned cafes. I especially liked the murals and the history.
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| The Fiesta Twin opened in Cortez in 1948. |
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| My favorite... The Old Spanish Trail A historic trade route that early settlers used to navigate between Santa Fe and Los Angeles |
Cortez had its start in 1886 when housing was needed for workers who were responsible for irrigating the Montezuma Valley. And today, the main economy for the area is agriculture. But that is not what this "high-desert city nestled in the southwestern corner of the state" is famous for. It is widely recognized as the "Archaeological Center of America". Cortez is framed by the Ute Mountain to the west and the dramatic mesas of Mesa Verde to the east...a nice blend of agriculture heritage and indigenous culture. And tourism plays a big part in the city's economy as well.
Canyons of the Ancients National Monument Visitor Center is located 6 miles from Belle. This NM protects a stunning cultural landscape with the highest known density of archeological sites in the U.S. It encompasses 176,000 acres of public lands and features more than 8,300 documented sites.
These sites offer a window into over 12.000 years of human history primarily shaped by Ancestral Puebloan cultures and their descendants.
The Visitor Center is gorgeous, full of information about the area, the ruins and culture, artifacts, archeological projects, and has an art gallery showcasing local artists' work that highlight the NM thru textiles, paintings and photographs.
We (including Lucy) made the 1/2 mile climb to the top of the hill overlooking the Dolores River valley and to see the Escalante Pueblo. The Pueblo was constructed in 1129. Escalante Pueblo holds a unique spot in modern history as the first recorded archeological site in Colorado. The pueblo was scientifically excavated and stabilized between 1975-76. During that time, excavations on the hill uncovered remarkable artifacts including thousands of turquoise, jet, and shell beads and an exquisite turquoise frog pendant.
The trail for the overlook and pueblo is at the Visitor Center. It is paved with covered picnic tables, benches along the way and lined with junipers and pinon pines.
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| The surrounding valley with Mesa Verde in background |
Another day, we went exploring to see McPhee Reservoir.
The reservoir covers 4,470 acres when full with over 50 miles of shoreline. It extends 10 miles up the Dolores River. It is the second largest reservoir in Colorado and the largest in the San Juan National Forest.
Unfortunately, the reservoir is extremely low. Not a lot of runoff in the spring coupled with a high demand for irrigation of thousands of farming acres has used water that can not be naturally replenished.
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| We started a walk down to the water, but the grass was full of stickers...not good for Lucy. |
On Saturday we headed to the Farmers Market in Cortez. The market began when a lady who loved to make pies...a talent she learned from her mother...set up a table in a parking lot on Main Street 49 years ago. She sold the dozen pies she took and returned the next week with more. As the months went by, farmers joined in with their own produce and the market kept growing and is still a popular spot for locals today. Joe did buy a beautiful knife and sheath made by a young fellow in Dolores. His display caught my eye first.
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| Mountain High Knives Brennan makes all the blades by designing and hand-forging high carbon and Damascus steel. He also creates the grips and leather sheaths in his shop. The knife Joe has is the one in the photo. Brennan said the grip is made with resin and a pinecone. |
I bought a small vase of flowers and a loaf of sourdough bread from a sweet couple whose toddler was quite the talker.
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| I couldn't help myself... |
On the way home we stopped at Kelly's Kitchen in Dolores. What a nice surprise that was. Kelly's is one of two businesses (the other shop is a Kokopelli Bike and Board Shop) in the old Exon Mercantile Co building on Central Ave built in 1906-07.
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| This building began as the town's first general store and meat market. Locally milled timbers and quarried sandstone blocks were used in the construction. The Mercantile operated continuously for six decades at this location until it closed in 1967. |
Kelly's Kitchen is on the left side with the red umbrella and a nice patio. Made from scratch breakfast, lunch, and specialty coffee are served Wednesday-Sunday from 7:00am to 2:00pm.
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| Menus are picked up just as you enter the door and your order is placed at the counter...just like Cafe A la Carte in Tucson. You take your number find a table either inside or outside where your food is served. |
I ordered the Garden Benedict with breakfast potatoes. Yummy and I ate every morsel.
Whatever you choose, save room for a cupcake and or a scone or at least plan to take some home. Scones are made daily and cupcakes once a week. The almond scones are wonderfully rich, buttery, nutty perfection. The chocolate cupcakes are divine melt in your mouth goodness and one is not enough!
When googling things to do here, Mancos, CO was mentioned as a place of interest. Homesteaders and ranchers began settling the fertile Mancos Valley back in the 1870s. They supplied beef, timber, and grain to nearby mountain mining camps. The town grew as a commercial hun and a stop along the Denver, Rio Grande, and Southern Railway. Today, this small town known as the "Gateway to Mesa Verde" maintains the feel and looks of its early Western character. And cattle drives still move through the main streets alongside a vibrant community of local artists, galleries, and craft beverage makers. That would be a sight to see!
The building has been sitting next to the Manco River for along time.
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| The mural inside Moondog... |
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| Hard Pressed 2020 artist : Brad Goodell (a local artist) Depicts an antique apple cider press and workers Painted on the exterior wall of Fenceline Cider... Fenceline Cider is a craft cidery and neighborhood taproom. It focuses on upcycling wild, heirloom and historic apples from abandoned orchards around Montezuma County into dry, comples craft ciders. |
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| A few sniffs and a potty break... |
