Saturday, March 11, 2023

The Cattle Capital of the West...Willcox, AZ

Willcox/Cochise KOA 
Willcox, AZ
March 11, 2023


Willcox was founded in 1880 as a whistlestop for the Southern Pacific Railroad.  Some would say its very existence is due to the fact that this area is about halfway between El Paso and Phoenix and seemed like a good place to add a train depot.  The historic Southern Pacific Railroad Depot was completed in December 1880 and the rest is history.  

Joe loves trains and we had plans to tour the museum housed in the old depot, but it is temporarily closed.  The marker located by the beautiful double door with glass panes states that :  

Pretty impressive !

Today the restored historic depot serves as a museum and City Hall for Willcox.

Across the street is the Historic Railroad Park complete with a life-size bronze statue of Rex Allen.


But more striking is the remains of a Siberian Elm that had to be cut down in 2020.  It was planted in 1928 and had been ailing for some time due to rotting roots.  Rather than haul it off it, it now has another purpose.  

By the 1930s, Willcox had become the largest range cattle rail shipping point in the United States...earning the town the title "Cattle Capital of the West".  And today, it's not uncommon to see/hear cow-haulers parked along the streets.  Many of the old buildings are still intact...some in disarray, some restored,  and some listed in the National Register of Historic Places.  

The yellow brick building above is 107 years old. The second floor was and still is the home of the Masonic Lodge.  



The first floor has been home to the county agricultural agent, a drug store, a hobby shop and today is a thrift shop.  And if you are in the market for baby billy goats, this is the place to be.


 




While some buildings haven't faired so well...

...others seem to have a renewed purpose.


Today, Willcox's economy is based largely on agriculture.  Award winning wineries are attracting attention from across the state with the vineyards here producing around 75% of the grapes used in the flourishing Arizona wine industry.  The area is also the second largest producer of pistachios globally with other speciality crops including  apples, peaches, pecans, cotton and small grains. 

There was no hustle and bustle in this tiny western town today.

But that might change during the West Fest Rodeo and Chuck Wagon Cook-Off, Wine Tasting Festival, Rex Allen Days complete with a parade and rodeo, Mountain Bike Fun Ride, and other such events and festivals.   


Speaking of Rex Allen, we enjoyed perusing The Rex Alan Museum and the Willcox Cowboy Hall of Fame. 
Rex Allen (1920-1999) is known as "the Arizona Cowboy".  He grew up on a homestead about 40 miles north of Willcox.  He was a film and television actor, singer and songwriter and was also a narrator in many Disney nature and western productions.  As a boy, Rex played the guitar and sang.   Back in the day when Roy Rodgers and Gene Autry were much in vogue, he was given a movie contract and from 1950-1954, he played in over 30 movies with 19 of these staring as himself. Joe watched some of these as a youngster.  



 




The Willcox Cowboy Hall of Fame was instituted in 1983 to honor one of the important resources of the Willcox area...it's cowboys.  The wall represents...not just big-time ranchers, but rather a celebration of all the ordinary people who have made this country great. 





SOME of the requirements to qualify to be listed in the book and have a picture mounted on the wall include:
   A wide-brimmed hat and a pair of tight pants.
   Two dogs to ride in the back of the pick-up.
   A forty dollar horse and a three hundred dollar saddle.
   A spool of barb wire, three fence posts, and a bale of hay to haul around.
   A pair of silver spurs to wear when you dress up. 
   A goose-neck horse trailer small enough to park in front of the cafe.
   A wife that believes your lies and has a good job.


We enjoyed lunch (thank you Janna for the recommendation) ) at Isabel's South of the Border just around the corner from the museum.  The chicken tostados were good and the serving was huge.  The staff is friendly and the restaurant is colorful, roomy and not crowded.  We enjoyed it so much we decided to visit again with Janna and Mike.  The fried mahi fish tacos were quite yummy, but the beef fajita burro was on the tough side.  

FYI... If you plan to stay awhile in Wilcox, there is a full service laundry

complete with directions for anywhere in southern Arizona.


But if you require adult beverages, you might want to bring your own.



And if you have a sweet tooth, Bakester's Pastries has some yummy choices...Voodoo Bars and Brown Sugar Pecan Pie Bars were at the top of our list !

Back at the KOA, our mornings were spent watching the sunrise and the cranes fly over.



Our afternoons were spent playing at the doggie park and enjoying the warm sunshine.  So many new smells.


And lots of ball play...so focused !



And evenings were spent enjoying the sunset.  Tuesdays sunset was the most vivid.  From this...


to this !


But Friday nights was my favorite. 




So, that's a wrap on our winter get away.  We were sorry it didn't work out for the Bisbee part of the trip, but now we just have that trip to look forward to all over again...just not in the winter.  And, Willcox is definitely on the radar for another visit as I'm thinking Chiricahua NM needs another visit and there are places we missed this time.  

Until next time,  







HAPPY TRAILS !

Thursday, March 9, 2023

The Land of Standing Up Rocks

Willcox/Cochise KOA

Willcox, AZ

March 8, 2023 

Our adventure for the day had us heading south on Hwy 186 thru some beautiful ranch country.

One of the reasons we decided to visit Willcox was the proximity to Chiricahua (pronounced cheer-i-cow-ah) National Monument.  It has been on the list for a long time. Now that Arizona is home, we are making time to see places/things we missed when full time rollin'.

The Chiricahua Apache called these pinnacles "standing up rocks".  Their origins began some 27 million years ago when a volcano erupted and spewed ash over some 1,200 square miles.  The heated ash melted together and formed layers of gray rock called rhyolite...blah, blah, blah.  Lets just say it is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area. 

Chiricahua NM was established in 1924 to preserve and protect the pinnacals.

Bonita Canyon Drive is an eight mile scenic drive the winds its way to Massai Point.  The overlook offers a 360 degree view of Rhyolite Canyon, 


adjacent valleys,

In the far distance you can see the desert grasslands of Sulphur Springs Valley.  Whitewater Draw (where the cranes migrate and we visited on Monday) is in that valley.  This was one of 15 points of interest on the Massai Nature Trail. 


and surrounding mountain peaks.  


Can you see it?

Cochise Head kiosk was close to the exhibit building located at Massai Point.  A handicap friendly sidewalk circles the building. 


We hiked/walked the Massai Nature Trail which had 15 points of interest.  We stopped and read all the signage, but mostly just enjoyed the rocks, the views and the trees.   We had wanted to hike to The Grotto, but the trail still had snow and ice form last weeks storm...didn't want to take any chances on slipping/falling ! 




   

Most of the pull-outs are easy to access on the way down from the point. 


We stopped at a few to see named rock formations and Bonita Creek. 

Looking down...

 
Looking up...

No visit to a park is complete without a stop at the Visitor Center.  The VC at Chiricahua NM is full of information, tee-shirts, exhibits, and some beautiful pottery and baskets.  It was hard to walk out empty handed !

Our last stop was for lunch and a walk to Faraway Ranch as we were leaving. Faraway Ranch began in 1886 as the homestead of Neil and Emma Erickson...Swedish Immigrants. The ranch spans the decades from traditional one-room log cabin to the 20th century home that now serves as a museum.  By the 1920s the ranch had become a guest ranch for visitors who came to explore the scenic canyons of the Chiricahua Mountains.   The name for the ranch came from a complaint that the Erickson's children had about their home that is was "so god-awful far away form everything". 

This large two-story house was just a two-room cabin in the beginning.  Over the years the little cabin grew to hold six bedrooms and that was just upstairs.  Neil Erickson became the first ranger at the park and they opened their home to tourists...charging a hefty sum of $2.50 a day (equivalent to about $200 today)  
 
The corral

Just beyond Faraway Ranch is the Stafford house...now thats a story.  Ja Hu Stafford was 46 when he arrived to Bonita Canyon with his 12 year-old-wife.  They were the first white settlers in Bonita Canyon.  The original cabin was made of unpeeled logs with a dirt floor.  They had five children who lived to adulthood.  Their homestead improved thru the years to include an addition on the log cabin, a chicken house, a smoke house , corral, and a four acre fenced-in garden.  Ja Hu cultivated pears, apples, apricots, persimmons, and peaches.  He grew radishes, beans, lettuce, cabbage, onions, pumpkins, tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, corn, squash, and watermelons.  The garden and orchard were The Stafford's biggest source of income.   



It is worth mentioning that Faraway Ranch became part of the National Park Service in 1979.  The trail to the ranch and cabin follows the Bonita Creek.  

Just inside the entrance to the park is a cemetery for Neil (1859-1937) and Emma (1854-1950). 

We did have a few wildlife sightings...

Mule deer

Flock of turkeys

Mexican Jays



And a first sighting for us...a White-Nosed Coati.  The Coati is a member of the raccoon family.  They are considered to be very good tree climbers and swimmers even though they spend a lot of time on the ground.  They are also known as coatimundis.  They use their long tails for balance and to communicate with each other.  Males are solitary, but females stay in a group.  We saw four.




We sure had a nice day...topped off with a Voodoo Bar from Bakester's Pastries in Wilcox. It is a vaca !

Until next time...




HAPPY TRAILS !