good-times-rollin: Wyoming

Sunday, September 8, 2019

Lander, Wyoming

Sleeping Bear RV Park
Lander, WY
July 30-Aug 5, 2019

Lander, WY was the last stop for our summer vacation.

Getting to Lander from Island Park had us back-tracking as we headed south on Hwy 32 through Idaho.

It was a gorgeous drive...

Those beautiful Tetons.

over Teton Pass between Victor, ID and Wilson, WY...

We were above the clouds!

with a quick peek at The Tetons...

Teton NP is the only NP with an airport.

before heading southeast through the Shoshone NF on Hwy 26 (a section of the Oregon Trail Historic Byway) from Moran to Lander.

Our home base for the week was Sleeping Bear RV Park.

We first heard about Lander in 2016 from MonaLisa and Steve's blog. We love small towns, had a week to spend somewhere before Joe's MOHs surgery (in Salt Lake City on Aug 7) so why not go to Lander.

Lander was established in 1884. This small town is located in central Wyoming along the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River. It is named after Gen. Frederick Lander who explored the Oregon Trail's Lander cutoff. Lander also claims to have held the first paid rodeo in 1893...an annual tradition they still celebrate.

Wyoming history of the bucking bronco dates back as early as 1918. It is popularly known as the "Cowboy State".

1. Popo Agie Falls (July 31)
Our first hike in Lander had us following the Popo Agie River in the Shoshone National Forest. It's an in-out, 3.5 mile (RT) hike through some gorgeous vistas.

The first part of the trail is lined with huge boulders on the right...

and the Popo Agie River on the left.

As we followed the trail (with a steady elevation gain) we could see a huge cascade that plummets into the river. But, this is not the end !

The falls is not one big fall, but is a combination of cascades ending with a swimming hole.

It is quite "the thing" for the adventurous,to slide down the rock into the very cold swimming hole.

2. Sinks Canyon State Park
(Aug. 2) is situated in the Wind River Mountains on the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie river.

The park is named after a distinct geological phenomena in which the Popo Agie River disappears into a limestone cavern...

The Sinks

...and reappears a 1/4 mile down canyon in a pool filled with rainbow trout.

The Rise

3. Sinks Canyon Trail
(Aug 2) is a 3.3 mile loop, but we included the Popo Agie Nature Trail for a total of 5 miles RT. It's a nice hike along the river, through aspen groves, and canyon meadows. Walking through the meadow was especially rewarding.

Blanketflower

Thistle

Lazuli Bunting

Western Tanager

A hungry Robin

4. Louis Lake Road (Aug 3) begins where Sinks Canyon Rd. ends. The locals refer to this 70 mile scenic drive to some of their favorite fishing spots as Loop Rd.

Our first stop was Frye Lake. This popular camping and fishing lake is also a storage reservoir for irrigation water.

Shortly after Frye Lake, the pavement changes to a gravelly/washboard road. The forest is denser, except in places where logging has been allowed. It wasn't very spectacular, but we wanted to reach Fiddlers Lake which is at the highest elevation (9411').

Fiddler's Lake

There is one in every crowd...reminds me of my Kindergarten days!

At this point, we turned around. But there is more on Loop Rd. to see. If we return to Lander, we hope to enjoy a hike and finish the loop.

5. Bus Loop (Aug 4) is a hike we read about in Pam and John's blog from their visit to Lander this past June. The trail is named for a small, rusty bus that is laid to rest there.

The area is primarily used for hiking and biking and the trials are not marked. You can hike as long and as far as you want to. There is no shade on this trail as it meanders through pasture land...

and over slick rock. I love slick rock !

One last look back at the slick rock reef as we continued up the hill.

Thanks Pam and John for including the Bus Loop in you blog and especially for the great directions !

6. South Pass City (Aug 5), a former stop on the Oregon Trail and a booming gold mining town, is now Wyoming's largest historic site and a State Park.

This impressive state park has 24 historic structures, more than 30 "period" room exhibits, a visitor center, picnic areas, and nature trails.

Our first stop was the Dance Hall/Theater/ Community Center/ and Sunday school building. We watched a short video and were given a walking guide pamphlet.

Beginning in the 1860s, Pony Express stations and trails created by emigrants heading west were established. South Pass City was born after gold was discovered there in 1867. While some came for the gold, others settled in the area to farm on public lands open to homesteading, and others saw opportunity as merchants and professionals and so a town boomed.

The blacksmith shop had remains of tools, billows and old wagon wheels.

Up the hill from the structures is a cemetary. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but there were only three graves and they were all children.

Also, South Pass City was home to Esther Morris, the first woman to serve in a judicial office in the U.S.. She was appointed Justice of the Peace in 1870 and served as judge.

This is the last post from our summer adventure. Exploring new places, awesome weather, great hikes, and gorgeous landscapes made for a very nice get away.

Until next time...

HAPPY TRAILS !

P.S. Kudos to Wyoming...We loved their signs !

Friday, August 16, 2019

Grand Teton NP...POIs

Colter Bay RV Park
July 9-22, 2019
Grand Teton NP

It is believed John Colter was the first Anglo-American to see the craggy Teton peaks that we call Grand Teton NP in the early 1800s. The valley below those peaks became known as Jackson Hole when Davey Jackson claimed it was his favorite trapping ground in the late 1820s. The word "hole" was a term used in that day to describe a high mountain valley. When other trappers referred to this gorgeous valley along the Snake River as Jackson's Hole, the name stuck.

For decades following, trappers, outlaws, traders, and Indians passed through Jackson Hole, but it was not until 1887 that settlers established the first permanent settlement for grazing cattle. Ranches sprang up in the area and tourists (from the east) came wanting to experience a little slice of the Old West. These very tourists began to raise the first concerns about preserving the natural beauty of the region.

1. Jackson or Jackson Hole? (July11)
There are just under 3 million acres in Teton County. 97% of that land is either federal or state owned land (including two national parks) leaving 3% for private land. Jackson was named in 1894 and incorporated as a municipality in 1914.

The first elk arch was built in 1953. Each arch is torn down and rebuilt periodically.

So I had to ask when we visited the town, " Are we in Jackson Hole or Jackson?" The answer was both. Jackson Hole refers to the entire valley (about 80 miles long and 15 miles wide) and Jackson refers to the town which sits on the southern end of the valley.

Some of the original buildings can be found on Town Square.
Resaurants, art galleries, and retail shops are housed in those buildings today.

Walking the square on wooded planks (with lots of other folks) is kindda neat. And besides, I did want to t-shirt !

2. Mormon Row (July 13)

Leaders of the The Church of the Later Day Saints sent parties to establish new communities and support their expanding population. Mormon settlers arrived in the valley in the 1890s. Homesteaders established 27 homesteads in Grovont (named by the U.S. Post Office). Clustered farm houses and barns were built enabling the settlers to share labor and community.

There are several structures that highlight Mormon Row today.

John and Bartha Moulton's barn was built by the Moulton brothers.

After 30 years of working the land,John and Bartha replaced their log home with a new pink stucco frame house. People lived here seasonally until the 1980s.

T.A. and Lucille Moulton's barn...

Settlers dug miles of ditches to bring water from the Gros Ventre River to their fields. The summer growing season was short. Hay and oats were were grown in large fields. The hay and oats, along with cream from the cows and eggs were taken to the market in Jackson and traded for groceries.

In 1997, Mormon Row was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

3. Gros Ventre Rd. (July 13)
Gros Ventre Rd. (pronounced Grow Vaunt) is an "off the beaten path" road that follows the Gros Ventre River for most of the way.

The road starts out paved and changes to a well-maintained gravel road.

When you leave the NP and enter the Bridger-Teton National Forest, there is an interpretive area that explains a slide that happened in 1925 that dammed the river and formed Slide Lake.

This picture shows the slide area today.

Lower Slide Lake

Aside from the river and lake, the red mountains make this a very scenic drive.

The Red Hills Ranch is a gorgeous piece of property along the way. A little research found that this ranch breeds and raises horses to sell.

Joe and I went as far a Crystal Creek Campground.

A beautiful lunch spot.

3. Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve (July 22)

If it had not been for our change of plans and adding the Phelps Lake hike, we would have missed the Preserve. This should definitely be on a "to do" list when in the Tetons.

Formerly known as the YJ Ranch, Laurance Rockefeller announced his intent to donated the last of his family's acres to the National Park and in 2001. He had a plan and was very specific on restoring the land so between 2004 and 2007, thirty buildings, roads, utilities, and other structures were removed opening the way for the construction of the new center. The center was dedicated on June 21, 2008 and opened to the public on the next day.

The structure has received several awards of excellence, achievement and merit...it is gorgeous !

Vertical wood slats reminiscent of old barns with gaps between boards, bring narrow slits of light inside.

Once stepping inside, it is more like a chapel than a center. Laurance Rockefeller wanted a "quiet" building designed to fit gently into the landscape. The 7,000 square foot building is self-guiding with the goal of awakening the senses so that visitors may gain a heightened appreciation of the surrounding landscape.

This picture was huge and filled most of the back wall where the slithers of light shine from the outside vertical wood slats.

A close up of the picture shows it really is a gazillion small photos.

The sound-scape room...four videos playing with nature recordings and depicting all seasons in the park...beautiful and mesmerizing.

There are recordings of Rockefeller speaking about conservation as well as displays showing him as a young boy with his father on the ranch.

The resource room has comfortable seating and was the perfect place to explore books on wildflowers we had questions about. There are rangers on hand as well to answer any questions.

Parking for the Preserve (and any hikes there) is limited to about 50 spots to intentionally keep the center and grounds uncrowded so arrive early.

4. Menor's Ferry Historic District (July 16)

Menor settled along the Snake River in 1894. He was the only homesteader on the west side of the valley until 1911. Observing that the Snake River was a natural barrier that divided the valley, he built a "reaction ferry" boat. The design dates back to ancient times using the river current to propel the boat.

The ferry we see today is a replica.

The ferry soon became the main crossing in the central part of Jackson Hole. He charged 50 cents for a wagon and team and 25 cents for a rider and horse. Pedestrians rode free if a wagon was crossing.

The buildings still standing today include a smoke house,

an ice house,

and his home and general store.

The General Store serves as a museum and is still open for business today.

The Menor's Ferry Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1969.

5. Signal Mountain Summit (July 17)

Signal Mt. Summit Road is a narrow paved road (5 miles) that winds its was through a Lodgepine Forest as it climbs (1,000 feet) to the summit of...you guessed it...Signal Mt.

The short drive is well worth the effort for breathtaking views of the Teton's towering peaks, the Snake River, Jackson Lake and flat glacial plains.