Grand Teton NP...POIs

Colter Bay RV Park
July 9-22, 2019
Grand Teton NP

It is believed John Colter was the first Anglo-American to see the craggy Teton peaks that we call Grand Teton NP in the early 1800s.  The valley below those peaks became known as Jackson Hole when Davey Jackson claimed it was his favorite trapping ground in the late 1820s.  The word "hole" was a term used in that day to describe a high mountain valley.  When other trappers referred to this gorgeous valley along the Snake River as Jackson's Hole, the name stuck. 

 For decades following, trappers, outlaws, traders, and Indians passed through Jackson Hole, but it was not until 1887 that settlers established the first permanent settlement for grazing cattle.  Ranches sprang up in the area and tourists (from the east) came wanting to experience a  little slice of the Old West.  These very tourists began to raise the first concerns about preserving the natural beauty of the region.   

1. Jackson or Jackson Hole? (July11) 
There are just under 3 million acres in Teton County.  97% of that land is either federal or state owned land (including two national parks) leaving 3% for private land.  Jackson was named in 1894 and incorporated as a municipality in 1914.  

The first elk arch was built in 1953. Each arch is torn down and rebuilt periodically. 

So I had to ask when we visited the town,  " Are we in Jackson Hole or Jackson?"  The answer was both.  Jackson Hole refers to the entire valley (about 80 miles long and 15 miles wide) and Jackson refers to the town which sits on the southern end of the valley.  

Some of the original buildings can be found on Town Square. 
Resaurants, art galleries, and retail shops are housed in those buildings today.

Walking the square on wooded planks (with lots of other folks) is kindda neat. And besides, I did want to t-shirt ! 





2. Mormon Row (July 13)



Leaders of the The Church of the Later Day Saints sent parties to establish new communities and support their expanding population.  Mormon settlers arrived in the valley in the 1890s.  Homesteaders established 27 homesteads in Grovont (named by the U.S. Post Office).  Clustered farm houses and barns were built enabling the settlers to share labor and community.  

There are several structures that highlight Mormon Row today. 

John and Bartha Moulton's barn was built by the Moulton brothers. 

After 30 years of working the land,John and Bartha replaced their log home with a new pink stucco frame house.  People lived here seasonally until the 1980s.  

T.A. and Lucille Moulton's barn...

Settlers dug miles of ditches to bring water from the Gros Ventre River to their fields.  The summer growing season was short.  Hay and oats were were grown in large fields.  The hay and oats, along with cream from the cows and eggs were taken to the market in Jackson and traded for groceries.

In 1997, Mormon Row was added to the National Register of Historic Places.  

3. Gros Ventre Rd. (July 13)
Gros Ventre Rd. (pronounced Grow Vaunt) is an "off the beaten path" road that follows the Gros Ventre River for most of the way.  

The road starts out paved and changes to a well-maintained gravel road.  

When you leave the NP and enter the Bridger-Teton National Forest, there is an interpretive area that explains a slide that happened in 1925 that dammed the river and formed Slide Lake.  

This picture shows the slide area today. 

Lower Slide Lake

Aside from the river and lake, the red mountains make this a very scenic drive.  


















The Red Hills Ranch is a gorgeous piece of property along the way.  A little research found that this ranch breeds and raises horses to sell. 

Joe and I went as far a Crystal Creek Campground. 

A beautiful lunch spot.

3. Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve (July 22)

If it had not been for our change of plans and adding the Phelps Lake hike, we would have missed the Preserve.  This should definitely be on a "to do" list when in the Tetons.


Formerly known as the YJ Ranch, Laurance Rockefeller announced his intent to donated the last of his family's acres to the National Park and in 2001.  He had a plan and was very specific on restoring the land so between 2004 and 2007, thirty buildings, roads, utilities, and other structures were removed opening the way for the construction of the new center.  The center was dedicated on June 21, 2008 and opened to the public on the next day. 





























The structure has received several awards of excellence, achievement and merit...it is gorgeous ! 

 Vertical wood slats reminiscent of old barns with gaps between boards, bring narrow slits of light inside.

Once stepping inside, it is more like a chapel than a center.  Laurance Rockefeller wanted a "quiet" building designed to fit gently into the landscape.   The 7,000 square foot building is self-guiding with the goal of awakening the senses so that visitors may gain a heightened appreciation of the surrounding landscape.

This picture was huge and filled most of the back wall where the slithers of light shine from the outside vertical wood slats.

A close up of the picture shows it really is a gazillion small photos.

The sound-scape room...four videos playing with nature recordings and depicting all seasons in the park...beautiful and mesmerizing.

There are recordings of Rockefeller speaking about conservation as well as displays showing him as a young boy with his father on the ranch. 

The resource room has comfortable seating and was the perfect place to explore books on wildflowers we had questions about.  There are rangers on hand as well to answer any questions.

Parking for the Preserve (and any hikes there) is limited to about 50 spots to intentionally keep the center and grounds uncrowded so arrive early. 

 4. Menor's Ferry Historic District (July 16)


Menor settled along the Snake River in 1894.  He was the only homesteader on the west side of the valley until 1911.  Observing that the Snake River was a natural barrier that divided the valley, he built a "reaction ferry" boat.  The design dates back to ancient times using the river current to propel the boat. 

The ferry we see today is a replica.

 The ferry soon became the main crossing in the central part of Jackson Hole.  He charged 50 cents for a wagon and team and 25 cents for a rider and horse.  Pedestrians rode free if a wagon was crossing.

The buildings still standing today include a smoke house,

 an ice house,

 and his home and general store.

The General Store serves as a museum and is still open for business today.

The Menor's Ferry Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1969.

5. Signal Mountain Summit (July 17)


Signal Mt. Summit Road is a narrow paved road (5 miles) that winds its was through a Lodgepine Forest as it climbs (1,000 feet) to the summit of...you guessed it...Signal Mt.


The short drive is well worth the effort for breathtaking views of the Teton's towering peaks, the Snake River, Jackson Lake and flat glacial plains.

Jackson Lake with Mt. Moran in the background...

Glacial plains with Grand Teton peak...

The Snake River...

I have one more post on our visit to The Tetons so say tuned.  I'll close with a few more pictures...

Wildlife on Morman Row...

Front porch at Laurence S. Rockefeller Center...

Crystal Creek Campground

Elk Arch in Jackson

Simplicity and beauty...

Front porch at Menor's General Store

Scenery along Gros Ventre Rd.

The first pull-out on the Signal Mountain Summit Rd.

Laurence S. Rockefeller Center...

Signal Mt. Survey dated 1931...

Morman Row...

Until next time...

HAPPY TRAILS !

Grand Teton NP: Glacial Lakes...Part 2

Colter Bay RV Park
July 9-22
Grand Teton NP

On the way home from one of our hikes, we stopped at Jackson Lake Lodge.  Lodge ?...ummm...not like any lodge we have ever seen.  It is very elegant and grand.  They do offer lodges (cottages) near by as well as rooms on the 3rd floor.  There are restaurants (4 choices...fine dining with a view in The Mural Room, The Blue Heron Room for beer and burgers, Pioneer Grill for breakfast, lunch & dinner in a classic 1950's-style service, and Pool BBQ with music nightly) and shopping in the upper lobby.     

We were not interested in the dining or shopping, but we were wowed by the views from the 60-foot floor to ceiling windows which frame Jackson Lake and the Teton Range beautifully!

 We also made a pull-out stop at Oxbow Bend.  It is perhaps the most photographed place in the entire park.  The images of Mt. Moran reflecting in the Snake River are "famous". 

 Every drive we took, I was snapping away (thanks to Joe who kept the windshield spiffy clean) mostly with the phone. 



























Teton Park Road was my favorite route.  It took us to just about every place we wanted to go.  It goes right over the Jenny Lake Dam.

  And what a treat to have it all to ourselves most mornings !

This was taken on our way to hike the Taggart Lake/Bradley Lake trail.

Glacial Lakes part 2 begins with the 4th and 5th lakes in one hike.
 Taggart Lake/Bradley Lake (July 20)

The trailhead is on Teton Park Rd.  The parking lot is big and we had no issues getting a space, but when we finished, the lot was full with vehicles parked along the sides of the road in both directions.  We hiked 7.1 miles RT on this gorgeous loop trail.  There were several highlights of the day with the first being the roaring Taggart Creek as if made it's way through a forest of spruce, fir and lodgepole pines (Oh, how I miss that evergreen smell !) and some aspen groves. 

What the way to get the day going!

What a sound...

 Another huge highlight and a first for us was a bear encounter.  For some reason, I walk in front of Joe.  As we crested an incline and turned a corner, Joe quietly said "There's a bear."  I had walked right past it !  It was a juvenile black bear...quite a sight to see.
















He/she completely ignored us...

The Beaver Creek Fire in 1985 burned more than 1000 acres in the park.  It is recovering nicely...and offers outstanding views of the mountains.

The center peak is Grand Teton at 13,770 feet.

As on the other glacial lake hikes, these lakes were also gorgeous !  As were the reflections...

Bradley Lake

We did the loop in a counter-clockwise direction and reached Bradley Lake first. 

A zoom with the camera...

It is the smallest of the glacial lakes and is fed by Garnet Creek which flows off Middle Glacier.







Instead of continuing on the loop, we added a couple of miles to see where Bradley Lake begins.





Back on the loop, we veered right and climbed the moraine between the two lakes.  It was a good, steady climb before we reached the north edge of Taggart Lake



and headed back to the trailhead.

6. Phelps Lake (July 22)
Phelps Lake is the southernmost of the glacial lakes left behind by the glacier that formed Death Canyon.  It is a great choice for a quiet hike and even a better choice because it can be accessed at the Lawrence S. Rockefeller Preserve.  More on the Preserve later.  

Since this was our last day in the Tetons, we decided to do an in-out hike from the Preserve to Huckelberry Point on the Lake Creek Trail which was just over 6 miles RT. The trail however is a loop that circles the entire lake if you have time and energy. 

The trail isn't called Lake Creek for no reason.

Another gorgeous day!

Just past the bridge, we crested a hill and this time I was on my A-game!  Of course how could I miss.  A bear strolled right across the trail in front of us.  I felt quite satisfied with myself as I said, "Joe, there is a bear.".

 There is something very exciting about these sightings. My heart pounds and it takes a few seconds to compose myself so pictures are not that great.  And we don't linger for better ones !  This was our third encounter.

We slowly continued on our way (after thinking about turning around) as the bear moved on enjoying breakfast.

The forest part of the trail was green and thick...

  ...and we were very glad when we reached the clearing.

From here, we followed the trail to the juncture for Huckelberry Point, turned right and headed that direction.

It was easy to climb up that huge boulder, but how do I get down?

The views were incredible...

Looking to my left...

...and looking straight ahead.

I am so happy we decided to do these trails.  I had done a lot of research before we left.  Three of them were on our "to do" list.  It's nice to have plans and even nicer to change them sometimes !

I still have several more posts from The Tetons.  I haven't decided what to post next so stay tuned.  Until then, I'll close with a few favorite pictures.

 

Twinberry honeysuckle (Joe called them jelly bean bushes)

Cow parsnip

Wild roses

 HAPPY TRAILS !


FYI...