Monday, August 19, 2019

Grand Teton NP: Three More Hikes

Colter Bay RV Campground
July 9-22
Grand Teton NP

Although this is the last post for our visit to the Tetons, I could go on and on.  Joe and I both enjoyed our time there as much as if not more than any other place we have gone.  Not only was the scenery breathtaking, there was wildlife, wildflowers, hiking, and history all within a 30 minute drive.  Unlike a lot of National Parks where you might drive for an hour or more to a destination, everything we wanted to see and do was close enough to enjoy.  

Three more hikes Joe and I enjoyed:

1. Swan Lake/Heron Pond Loop (July 10)
Swan Lake/Heron Pond Loop trail is accessed from Colter Bay making it a great first hike in the Tetons.  The loop from the trailhead is 3.3 miles, but we totaled 5.5 as we started from home.  The mostly level trail begins on an old service road with views of Mt Moran (12,605 ft.) and Jackson Lake.
Jackson Lake with Mt. Moran in the background...



At the first juncture, Joe and I veered left  in a counterclockwise direction.  
Never have I seen so many lily pads...



































A spur trail along Swan Lake...




















If you squint your eyes, you can see an otter...
This cutie was determined to swim away from his mama...



The trail wandered through a pine forest and meadow to reach Heron Lake.  And being our first hike, we were bear ready !










The wildflowers were colorful and plentiful...


















Heron Pond was quite scenic.


















Much to my delight a gaggle of geese was visiting Heron Pond too and some of them were close to shore.






































Just as we were about to leave, a few American 
White Pelicans swooped in.  They were pretty far away...












After working up an appetite, we enjoyed the pizza at the Cafe Court Pizzeria at Colter Bay before walking home.  Made to order and yummy !

2. Death Canyon Trail (July 15) 

Death Canyon Trail system is a popular backpacking/overnight trail.  It's one of those strenuous hikes that goes on and on for miles and miles.  



We didn't do that, but chose instead to hike to the Phelps Lake Campground for a hike just under 6 miles RT.  It wasn't a flat hike and we were definitely "feeling" it.  The trail starts out as a steady climb through a lodgepole pine forest and a few aspen groves.    






















We reached the Phelps Lake overlook at about a mile.


















From the overlook it was all down hill and you know exactly what we were thinking...what goes down has to go up !
And we didn't have this view on the return uphill.



















We were getting closer and closer to the lake, but after a left hand turn that took us through a meadow we soon found ourselves in a dark, forest full of aggravating and very thirsty mosquitoes.  That is where we turned around !
Well, it seemed dark and scary at the time. 



















A few pretty things to focus on rather than the up climb...


















































3. Top of the World (July 16)
One of the funnest days we had was the hike we took at the top of Rendevous Mountain.  Rendevous Mt. is Jackson Hole Ski Resort.  It is enjoyed year round by skiers and hikers.  So how do you reach the 10,450 summit?  You can hike or you can take the tram.  


We chose the tram because in just 12 minutes, the Aerial Tram glides skyward 4,139 feet. 








 At half way, as we were going up, we met the other tram coming down.
   





Looking up...


















Looking down...



















Our choice for a hike was Top of the World.


















Top of the World is a short 2 mile hike packed full of gorgeous vistas... 



























...and when we were there, packed full of alpine wildflowers. Only a few inches tall these delicate, yet strong flowers have a short growing time and spread so much joy...well at least to us !  A few of many pictures I took...




















There was even wildlife at over 10,000 feet !



Another great reason to take the tram to the summit is Corbet's Cabin (built in the 1960s).  It is nothing fancy or big, but full of character, smiling folks, scenic views, and best of all...waffles. 





The speciality is light, crispy, warm delicious waffles made to order.  I had mine topped with brown sugar and butter.  They are served sandwich style wrapped in tin foil.  Still makes my mouth water !

Our adventure to Rendezvous Mountain will definitely be repeated if we ever find ourselves back in The Tetons.

This sums up our adventures and activities for The Tetons.  I have said it before and I will say it again, it was a wonderful 13 days.  I will close with a few more of hundreds of pictures I have. 
Heron Pond


Top of the World









Top of the World



















Death Canyon



















Top of the World


Rendevous Mountain Summit

















Until next time...

HAPPY TRAILS !

P.S.  Don't forget to visit Oxbow Bend at sunset.
We didn't see a moose there, but you might!

















And also check out River Road 
















and Antelope Flats Road.


















Up next, a quick trip to Yellowstone.

Friday, August 16, 2019

Grand Teton NP...POIs

Colter Bay RV Park
July 9-22, 2019
Grand Teton NP

It is believed John Colter was the first Anglo-American to see the craggy Teton peaks that we call Grand Teton NP in the early 1800s.  The valley below those peaks became known as Jackson Hole when Davey Jackson claimed it was his favorite trapping ground in the late 1820s.  The word "hole" was a term used in that day to describe a high mountain valley.  When other trappers referred to this gorgeous valley along the Snake River as Jackson's Hole, the name stuck. 





 For decades following, trappers, outlaws, traders, and Indians passed through Jackson Hole, but it was not until 1887 that settlers established the first permanent settlement for grazing cattle.  Ranches sprang up in the area and tourists (from the east) came wanting to experience a  little slice of the Old West.  These very tourists began to raise the first concerns about preserving the natural beauty of the region.   

1. Jackson or Jackson Hole? (July11) 
There are just under 3 million acres in Teton County.  97% of that land is either federal or state owned land (including two national parks) leaving 3% for private land.  Jackson was named in 1894 and incorporated as a municipality in 1914.  
The first elk arch was built in 1953. Each arch is torn down and rebuilt periodically. 




So I had to ask when we visited the town,  " Are we in Jackson Hole or Jackson?"  The answer was both.  Jackson Hole refers to the entire valley (about 80 miles long and 15 miles wide) and Jackson refers to the town which sits on the southern end of the valley.  


Some of the original buildings can be found on Town Square. 
Resaurants, art galleries, and retail shops are housed in those buildings today.






Walking the square on wooded planks (with lots of other folks) is kindda neat. And besides, I did want to t-shirt ! 





2. Mormon Row (July 13)



Leaders of the The Church of the Later Day Saints sent parties to establish new communities and support their expanding population.  Mormon settlers arrived in the valley in the 1890s.  Homesteaders established 27 homesteads in Grovont (named by the U.S. Post Office).  Clustered farm houses and barns were built enabling the settlers to share labor and community.  

There are several structures that highlight Mormon Row today. 
John and Bartha Moulton's barn was built by the Moulton brothers. 

After 30 years of working the land,John and Bartha replaced their log home with a new pink stucco frame house.  People lived here seasonally until the 1980s.  
T.A. and Lucille Moulton's barn...

Settlers dug miles of ditches to bring water from the Gros Ventre River to their fields.  The summer growing season was short.  Hay and oats were were grown in large fields.  The hay and oats, along with cream from the cows and eggs were taken to the market in Jackson and traded for groceries.







In 1997, Mormon Row was added to the National Register of Historic Places.  

3. Gros Ventre Rd. (July 13)
Gros Ventre Rd. (pronounced Grow Vaunt) is an "off the beaten path" road that follows the Gros Ventre River for most of the way.  















The road starts out paved and changes to a well-maintained gravel road.  

When you leave the NP and enter the Bridger-Teton National Forest, there is an interpretive area that explains a slide that happened in 1925 that dammed the river and formed Slide Lake.  




This picture shows the slide area today. 

















Lower Slide Lake

















Aside from the river and lake, the red mountains make this a very scenic drive.  


















The Red Hills Ranch is a gorgeous piece of property along the way.  A little research found that this ranch breeds and raises horses to sell. 


Joe and I went as far a Crystal Creek Campground. 
A beautiful lunch spot.

3. Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve (July 22)

If it had not been for our change of plans and adding the Phelps Lake hike, we would have missed the Preserve.  This should definitely be on a "to do" list when in the Tetons.


Formerly known as the YJ Ranch, Laurance Rockefeller announced his intent to donated the last of his family's acres to the National Park and in 2001.  He had a plan and was very specific on restoring the land so between 2004 and 2007, thirty buildings, roads, utilities, and other structures were removed opening the way for the construction of the new center.  The center was dedicated on June 21, 2008 and opened to the public on the next day. 





























The structure has received several awards of excellence, achievement and merit...it is gorgeous ! 
 Vertical wood slats reminiscent of old barns with gaps between boards, bring narrow slits of light inside.
Once stepping inside, it is more like a chapel than a center.  Laurance Rockefeller wanted a "quiet" building designed to fit gently into the landscape.   The 7,000 square foot building is self-guiding with the goal of awakening the senses so that visitors may gain a heightened appreciation of the surrounding landscape.
This picture was huge and filled most of the back wall where the slithers of light shine from the outside vertical wood slats.

A close up of the picture shows it really is a gazillion small photos.

The sound-scape room...four videos playing with nature recordings and depicting all seasons in the park...beautiful and mesmerizing.

There are recordings of Rockefeller speaking about conservation as well as displays showing him as a young boy with his father on the ranch. 














The resource room has comfortable seating and was the perfect place to explore books on wildflowers we had questions about.  There are rangers on hand as well to answer any questions.

Parking for the Preserve (and any hikes there) is limited to about 50 spots to intentionally keep the center and grounds uncrowded so arrive early. 
 4. Menor's Ferry Historic District (July 16)


Menor settled along the Snake River in 1894.  He was the only homesteader on the west side of the valley until 1911.  Observing that the Snake River was a natural barrier that divided the valley, he built a "reaction ferry" boat.  The design dates back to ancient times using the river current to propel the boat. 


The ferry we see today is a replica.

 The ferry soon became the main crossing in the central part of Jackson Hole.  He charged 50 cents for a wagon and team and 25 cents for a rider and horse.  Pedestrians rode free if a wagon was crossing.

The buildings still standing today include a smoke house,
 an ice house,
 and his home and general store.

The General Store serves as a museum and is still open for business today.




The Menor's Ferry Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1969.



5. Signal Mountain Summit (July 17)


Signal Mt. Summit Road is a narrow paved road (5 miles) that winds its was through a Lodgepine Forest as it climbs (1,000 feet) to the summit of...you guessed it...Signal Mt.


The short drive is well worth the effort for breathtaking views of the Teton's towering peaks, the Snake River, Jackson Lake and flat glacial plains.
Jackson Lake with Mt. Moran in the background...

Glacial plains with Grand Teton peak...

The Snake River...

I have one more post on our visit to The Tetons so say tuned.  I'll close with a few more pictures...


Wildlife on Morman Row...

Front porch at Laurence S. Rockefeller Center...










Crystal Creek Campground

Elk Arch in Jackson


















Simplicity and beauty...

Front porch at Menor's General Store

Scenery along Gros Ventre Rd.

The first pull-out on the Signal Mountain Summit Rd.



Laurence S. Rockefeller Center...


Signal Mt. Survey dated 1931...








Morman Row...






























Until next time...





























HAPPY TRAILS !